New River Gorge

Powerful flowing water is the creative force shaping the geologic features of the New River Gorge. The river has sculpted towering cliffs of sandstone and shale that stretch for miles, making it the best place on the east coast to climb, hike, and white water raft. In my opinion... but also objectively. The newly dubbed national park contains the most diverse flora of any river gorge in central and southern Appalachia; an essential habitat for endangered mammals, rare birds, and amphibians. Most notably are the bats that live in their abandoned mine portals, the endangered Virginia big-eared and Indiana bats. There is also a variety of aquatic life, with several distinct populations of native fish found nowhere else, and 48 known species of amphibians, including the endangered eastern hellbender, black-bellied salamander, and cave salamander. The New is also a vital link in the north-south migratory flyway, with thousands of hawks traversing the reigon during the fall. At least 1,342 species of plants and 54 rare plants have been identified in the gorge.

There are three distict climbing areas, The New, Summersville, and the Meadow. My favorite is Summersville, which has several great routes above the lake for prime deep-water soloing. And I know this is a fake wikipedia page about climbing, but I cannot emphasize enough that the best part of the New is its natural aspects. The flora and fauna, the rock and river. A significant reason I climb outside is to heal my relationship to the natural world, which has been disrupted and severed over the years due to a lack of attention on my part. The New is where I learned to sport climb, and it is currently my favorite place to climb. I'll be here for the summer of 2025. I'd stay here forever if I could.

notable routes

mushrooms 5.10-

Located at the trad crag of Beauty Mountain, a plainly accurate name for the cliff with a great view of raft tours from above, and a 60 meter double rope repel to the bottom of the cliff where all climbs commence. If I had any gripes about the New, it would be how crowded the softer crags get. But I've never seen anyone here. And yes, the four of us did microdose mushrooms before climbing mushrooms. Perhaps this made the climb seem more magical than usual? Maybe, but it was still incredible. The crack is filled with little triangles of green, like a vertical row of potted plants. Andre's rack twinkled and jingled in the wind, like a windchime. Now that I think of it, seeing this is what made me start learning trad. Also notable is the climb to the left, Screamer Crack, of which I managed to fit my entire body within, similar to the Junji Ito short story, The Enigma of Amigara Fault. And LSD to the right, of which we did not attempt.

locumba 5.9+

Okay, don't climb this route. It's not really an interesting route. I just have an interesting story to go with it. So the NRocks staff is hiking to Orange Oswald in Summersville Lake after two days of heavy rain, no climbing- boo, and I'm desperate to lead something. Anything. I'm new to leading, and I have an itch to whip. Anyways, Jack steps on a hornets nest (why does this sound like some kind of nursery rhyme?) and I get stung twice in the neck, once on the leg. Whatever. I take some benedryl and continue. Soon, I'm falling asleep as we arrive at Narcissus cave. Chris points to Locumba: oh, that's That Eight, a 5.8. Alright, I say, and attempt to lead it before I doze off. What follows are some very sleepy whippers. But I make it to the top, okay? Then Mack climbs it, and downgrades it to a 7. Good times.

notes

• Queerclimbtastic, formerly Homoclimbtastic, is a LGBTQ+ climbing festival that takes place at the New every summer. You should come.
• fdsjklsjk

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